There was an early morning haze over the mountains forecasting rain, or perhaps change.
After breakfast Shasi,
who owns and operates Hotel Aagaman with her husband Rudra, told us she’d be leaving for Kathmandu at ten. Her daughter is flying to Melbourne to commence her university studies.
In just a day we’d grown fond of Shasi and Rudra, admiring their tenacity. Until a year ago the couple ran a photo copy business in Kathmandu which they’d started in 2010. All the while they saved for their dream, to move to Bandipur and open a hotel. Bandipur has been good for the couple, and travelers passing through have rewarded their hard work.
Before leaving, Shasi made arrangements for Lok to pick us up for the drive to Pokhara.
“He’s as good a driver as you will ever find,” she told us. “He’s a Gurkha. They’re fearless.”
After Shasi departed, and while waiting for Lok, Rudra educated us on the Gurkha.
“They’re a hill people, originating not far from here. I’ve been told the Gurkha take their name from a medieval Hindu warrior-saint, Guru Gorakhnath. The word comes from Goraksha - Protector.”
I asked Rudra his opinion of Lok.
“He’s a Gurkha through and through. Protectors of Nepal for centuries, they successfully defeated India’s attempts to take us over. Now they fight in our army, the Indian army, the British army, and with UN Peacekeeping forces.”
“You know what they say about the Gurkhas?”
We didn’t of course.
"If a man says he’s not afraid of dying, he is either lying or he’s a Gurkha."
In the moment, we weren’t sure if that’s a good thing or not on the road to Pokhara. Shortly after, Lok arrived driving a little Suzuki. Pa and I later learned he’d purchased it new from India in November having saved for five years.
We immediately liked this Gurkha, and regret not having his photo. Knowing that he’s descended from a long line of Gurkha fighters,
we felt comfortable seated next to him.
It was a pleasant drive on the highway China is building, Lok surmounting each obstacle with skill and grace. Three years of the massive project completed, in two more a four-lane highway will connect Kathmandu with Pokhara. Though some in Nepal express concern about the patronage, thousands of Nepalese will benefit by the ease of travel.
Lok is a man of few words, but he opened up when the driving allowed it.
He was never a soldier, although his father served in the Indian army.
After his father was killed, Lok took to driving a taxi to support the family. About to turn fifty, that was thirty-five years ago.
Most of the time he drove in Pokhara, but a few years ago he met a good woman and they moved to Bandipur.
The couple have an eight year-old son who’s in school full time. “The love of my life,” Lok told us.
40 minutes ahead of schedule we arrived at the Hotel Mountain Villa.
After saying our good-byes, Sugat’s good friend, Probin, greeted us.
In the evening we went for a stroll, after which Probin treated us to hot lemon juice with ginger.
Sipping on the tangy sweet tea, Pa and I reflected on our brief time with Lok.
“Though he was never a soldier,” Pa said. “No doubt he would have been a fine one.”
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