Kyushu Island to the west, is a mountainous area ill suited for growing rice. But centuries ago, farmers became artisans after discovering that its forests, streams and clay were ideal for pottery making.
In planning our trip to Nagasaki, Pa and I learned that the village of Imari is one of a handful particularly well known for its superb styles. And beyond Imari lies the remote island of Hirado, worth exploring we’d be told.
So we’re headed to Nagasaki,
after three days of mountain, sea, and pottery.
While watching The Age of Samurai, we learned that the Japanese in the 1590s invaded Korea en route to China, hoping to conquer it. The Koreans refused to tolerate the Japanese plan and the invasion failed miserably.
What we didn’t learn was that the invaders took hostage many Korean potters, bringing them to Japan with designs of making ceramics a major industry. Sadly, they kept the potters captive, never allowing them to return to their homes and families. Suggestive, it seems, of a darker side of the Japanese character.
Anyway, Imari has many nice shops. We discovered when we got there, however, that the real work is done in Okawachiyama, a small village 6km up into the mountains,
the “Potters Village” it’s called.
Arriving after most shops had closed,
nevertheless a few were still open,
and we visited.
finding a matcha bowl I liked a lot, but $600 was beyond our budget.
It’s often the back side, however, that’s of greater interest, so we crossed a bridge
that spans one of two village streams,
and came upon small warehouses,
a kiln,
and another,
the fuel required for firing,
chimneys across the way,
and a finished product,
marking, perhaps, the residence of its creator.
Later we came to a second bridge,
with an interesting place on the far side,
where a contraption had been constructed,
powered by water
that makes its way
into the spoons of great levers,
resting there until its weight too great to bear.
Beyond that place, the purpose of which confounded both Pa and me, was a cemetery
and Tokomuen Grave,
the Tomb of the Potters,
Built from the tombstones of potters who’d worked all their lives so others might appreciate,
most born in Korea or descended from that first generation held hostage.
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