Shortly after 7, and before Pa and I had a chance to stretch, Probin yelled up, “Fred, I’ve got your masala tea.” A minute later he was at the door with a steamy glass of the rich milky brew.
Thirty minutes passed and Probin yelled up again, “Fred, I’ve got your breakfast.” Before we could exit the bathroom, it was on the table next to the door and he was gone.
(We’re going to have to talk with Sugat about adding room service to his list of offerings.)
The tea was excellent, as was the breakfast, and by 8 were out the door anticipating a good day. Looking up and down the street in search of the lake, we looked up as well. And there was Annapurna, at 26,545 ft, number 10 on the list of the world’s highest peaks.
It was going to be a good day.
Pa suggested we walk down hill as the lake would most likely be there. I would have concluded the same if given more time. I followed Pa’s lead and within a minute or two we both concluded that there‘s a different feel to Pokhara.
The pace is slower.
The traffic so minimal, you can stand in the middle of the street without taking your life in your hands.
Even the cows know that.
And so it was when we arrived at the lake, a few gentlemen visiting casually with no apparent need to hurry.
Pa and I walked down to the lake’s edge. Oh my.
And to our right, long multi-colored boats the likes of which neither of us had ever seen.
Wondering about going for a ride, we walked back up and were met by a little guy who introduced himself.
“I’m Mr. Vishnu. How can I help?”
I told him I was interested in a boat ride, perhaps later in the afternoon when the sun was low in the sky.
“That’s a very good time,” said Mr. Vishnu. “I suggest five o’clock.”
I asked who would be our pilot.
“I will, sir. You will find me quite capable.”
Pa whispered, “He’s a good man.” So we shook on it.
Walking back up the hill, we were stopped by the smell of coffee.
On the menu was cafe mocha, another brew I‘m quite fond of.
And our barista a quite capable young lady.
Settling up, I introduced myself and she did the same. Not quite grasping her full name, I asked if she might spell it out. She obliged.
“Oh, you’re a Gurung, a very courageous people,” knowing the Gurung are one of the main Gurkha tribes. She beamed, “Yes we are. My father, and my father’s father served in the Indian army. And before them, others fought against the Indians.”
It’s a small world.
Afternoon came and we were back at the lake with Mr. Vishnu pushing us off.
Pa was right. Mr. Vishnu is a very good man having lived quite a life.
His father was a porter on the trekking circuit. When he turned 16 he joined his father. For twenty-five years Mr. Vishnu shouldered loads up to sixty pounds, on treks 21 days and longer, and altitudes as high as 24,000 feet. Finally he accomplished what his father did not. He became a guide leading expeditions with men and women from around the world.
Mr. Vishnu learned much about the modern way of things, some of which he admired and some he had no taste for.
Stroke after stroke he shared his life.
The loss of his father and his mother. The challenges of raising three children in a mountain home without electricity or running water. The pride he has for his children, two of whom are deaf but nevertheless made it though the 12th grade.
The hour ended just as the sun was about to set.
Walking back, we stopped for dinner.
Muna, the owner, said it was all fresh, then pointed to one that’s her favorite. “I stuff it with garlic cloves, tiny mushrooms, and bits of sweet onion before putting it on the grill.”
It was incredible.
While we ate I asked Pa, though I thought it unlikely, if he’d ever met Anthony Bourdain. In fact he had. Pa and Anthony share a mutual friend, a chef Pa met on his travels to Chicago. Though Pa never spoke with Mr. Bourdain, he recalled overhearing him say:
“No matter what it looks like, you should try every food at least once.”
Nearing Hotel Mountain Villa, Pa drew my attention to a message painted on a pole.
“Young man, I assure you it’s true.”
We turned around and headed back for a last look at the lake.
In the morning at 7, we’re meeting Mr. Vishnu at the lake where we’ll rent a scooter and drive up into the mountains. He wants to introduce us to his family and show us around his neighborhood.
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