Little Venice

I had hoped to visit Porto, the 2nd largest city in Portugal and gateway to the Douro Valley. But recent torrential rains and subsequent flooding forced a change in plans. Instead, I’ve stopped in Aveiro, a pleasant city in the center of the country, self described as the “Little Venice of Portugal”.

The nickname is an apt one as canals crisscross the town and “moliceiros” ply their waters.

Having promised not to scrimp, I gladly paid the 12 euros for an hour with Bruno - skipper, amateur historian, and all around nice guy.

Though not his only passenger, it appeared I was the only English speaking one. Nevertheless, he devoted equal time to my experience.

Early in our voyage, Bruno pointed out the sights that line the canals.

Warming up, at least to me, he spoke of his love of soccer, Portugal’s hosting of the 2004 World Cup, the devastating 1-0 loss to Greece in the final, and the country’s most recent World Cup loss to Morocco.

“But in the end,” he said, “it’s only a game. I have a family to support. Family comes before any pastime, no matter one’s passion for it.” I told him I understood, though deciding not to share my lifelong love for the Yankees.

Bruno then shifted the conversation to more ancient times when the medieval town was a center of salt exploration by the Romans. Over the subsequent centuries Aveiro became an important trade center for the precious commodity.

While the gathering and processing of salt is no longer the primary source of Aveiro’s economic prosperity, harvesting never ceased, and continues to this day.

Navigate the canals or walk them, and you’ll find tribute in art,

mural,

and sculpture

to those whose efforts made it possible for others to season their food, preserve it, and utilize the essential mineral in so many important ways.