It rained and rained, and rained some more. At least 6 inches they say. But Hibari held up, and the rest of Kyoto did too, from what I know. Still, it wasn’t a day for temples or shrines or hiking in the woods.
I considered the Railway Museum, the best in Japan according to reviews. But then a German woman staying here recommended a tea ceremony she participated in earlier in the week. So I went online, found an opening at 3:00, and within the hour I was on the 208.
The ceremony took place in a century old house, having had some regular repairs but no structural changes since it was built.
It’s actually two houses attached,
the one on the left, a story and a half. The one on the right, two stories.
We were told that in the day of the samurai, commoners weren’t permitted to live in two story homes. To do so would enable them to look down on samurai passing by.
The “tea school” is run by Michiyo,
formerly an elementary school teacher, now an understudy in chanoyu (tea ceremony) to a renowned Kyoto master.
Michiyo took four of us under her tutelage - a young woman from Vancouver, a second from Munich and her partner, a young man from Zurich. Just the right number for a group experience.
She began by teaching us the Japanese expression ichi go ichi e - One chance, one opportunity,
holding our attention by reminding us that “This time we have together is a one time opportunity, so let us make the best of it.”
She then demonstrated seiza,
the nearly impossible act of kneeling with ones buttocks resting on the heels, and introduced a few basic terms: chawan (tea bowl), chashaku (tea scoop), and chasen (tea whisk).
After walking us through the process: chawan, chashaku, matcha, water, and chasen in concert,
we ate the obligatory wagashi (the sweet that balances the slight bitterness of matcha)
then each of us gave it a try.
I’ve been doing a simplified chanoyu for about 8 years (as part of a morning practice to lower my blood pressure) but realized I’m still very much a novice.
But Michiyo praised us all, and at the end imparted a final lesson:
Wa Kei Sei Jaku
和 敬 清 寂
Wa - the importance of harmony in Tea.
Kei - the importance of respect.
Sei - the importance of purity.
Jaku - the importance of selfless tranquility.
In the evening, the rain having abated, I took a walk and discovered a little place near Hibari that I’d yet to visit.
It was open, so I entered, was led to a table and handed a menu. I didn’t feel like pulling out Google Translate so I went with what was at the top,
figuring it must be a local favorite.
Seated near the action, I got a primer in another “process” perhaps unique to the Japanese as well.
It starts out with a hot griddle, then a ladle of a very thin batter,
upon which was placed a mound of cabbage,
a handful of grilled beef,
a heaping of udon noodles - also grilled,
a light sauce drizzled over it all,
followed by the making of it into a pancake
which I missed how she flipped it,
and then another sauce,
sort of a BBQ.
The whole thing was transported and placed on my table top griddle and seasoned,
I wasn’t doing it to their liking,
so they took over,
then sliced it,
sort of like a pizza.
I did my best to eat it all, because it was quite incredible,
but still had to take some home.
At the end, they wanted to know where I was from and how old I was. To both questions I answered truthfully. They then they prompted me to guess their ages as well,
my response bringing smiles.
For some reason I got the feeling they wanted to take me home, so I gave them a handsome tip (which you don’t normally do in Japan) and quickly made my way to the door, promising to return.
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