About an hour south of Kyoto Station on the Kintetsu Line is Nara, the last stop. Small in comparison to Japan’s major cities, people flock there. I visited Nara several years ago and never lost the feeling of the place, though the specifics had all but disappeared.
Most visitors, if they have just a day, spend it at Nara Park,
more commonly called “Deer Park”.
I was reminded today that it got its name from a legend.
In the 8th century, supposedly, there was a Nara clan - the Fujiwaras - that invited a god from the Kashmir Shrine to visit. The god showed up riding on a white deer. Ever since, locals have protected deer as divine messengers.
So the first things you notice when you arrive at the park, are the deer,
they’re everywhere,
causing little trouble,
though when I was in line for an ice cream cone, one deftly lifted from a back pocket my park map.
Certain he knew his way around better than I did, I grabbed it back.
Of course there are other sights as well, including the Kohfukuji Temple,
and the Five Story Pagoda,
both of which are favorites of aspiring artists.
As much as I enjoyed observing the deer, and the artists, I moved on in search of something quieter.
Taking a side path, I happened upon some locals
content to be by themselves,
and nearby Ara-ike Pond,
where solitude is welcomed,
even honored.
For a while I observed a fellow quite interested
in something most others likely neglect.
I summoned the courage to approach,
and he explained to me,
with gesture more than words,
that he’s a bug collector, a pastime I imagine he derives great pleasure from.
I would like to have learned from him, knowing so little about bugs myself, but I climbed the hill in search of Kasuga Taisha Shrine,
one monument I still recalled from my earlier visit.
Along the way, I saw a young boy treating a young lady to a ride,
some buddies passing the time,
and others going from here to there.
But I was intent on my destination and finally arrived at the Shrine,
which, like Matsuo-taisha and Toji, is an entire complex of delights,
worthy of pause
and respect.
But as before, I longed for something quieter, and left the crowd behind,
taking to a path,
centuries old for sure,
designed to lead the seeker away from the traffic,
and to the Thin Places,
of respite
and reflection.
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