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  • Fred Van Liew

Toji

Kyoto Station, traffic central for all of Kyoto and the surrounding area, is a 30 minute walk from Hibari Hostel by the most direct route - 30 minutes just right for beginning the day. This morning, however, I decided on a different route, not for the sake of exercise, but for a change of scenery.

Half way along the Google path, I took a right and walked north until intersecting with the main line east out of the Station.

School kids just ahead,

I followed.

Perhaps they were embarking on a field trip and the Station was their destination as well.


But to my dismay,

they were going shopping.

Not in the mood, I continued on, certain the Station wasn’t far off,

and it wasn’t.

When I set out this morning, the plan was to choose one of a half dozen train lines and see where it might take me.

It appeared the Kintetsu had chosen me, so I let it take the lead until a woman with the Railway approached and wondered if I needed help.

“Where do you want to go?” she asked.

I replied that I wanted to ride the train and wondered if she had a suggestion.

“Have you been to Toji?”

I apologized and said I knew nothing of it.

“Toji Temple is very famous, and not far down the line. You must visit it.”

Not wanting to offend, I accepted her suggestion, after which she retrieved a paper map, circled the station, and led me to the platform gate, all for 270yen.

Safely on board,

I and the others waited for the engineer to show up.

A minute later we were on our way.

Two stops later, I was off,

and within minutes Toji was in sight,

or so I thought.


The five story pagoda in front of me,

was just that, and part of a much larger complex

dating back more than 1400 years.

I was soon at the main entrance where school girls had gathered for a photo. I took one as well,

and was called out.

They were kind enough to oblige me a second one,

then insisted that a male friend include me in another.

I have no idea why the interest.

Once inside, I realized that Toji is quite an extensive complex,

Kondo Hall, built in the 8th century and rebuilt in 1603,

one of several impressive structures.


And like the Matsumoto-taisha shrine, there were smaller,

but no less impressive gems

scattered about.

I stopped to photograph one of them, when a woman approached, politely took my camera, and told me where to stand.

Before I could protest, or seek reciprocity,

she was on her way.


After a time, I noticed there wasn’t a scrap of litter anywhere to be seen, and what had been in plain sight all along,



drew my attention,


as cleanliness is foundational

to the Japanese character.

Overseeing it all,

the Buddha

and one of his followers.

It appeared rain was on its way, so I made my way back on the Kintetsu Line, then took the path through Umekoji Park

where I met three gentlemen playing “Amazing Grace”

and giving it their all.

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